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Jess Cartner-Morley, the Guardian’s trend editor, applauded the particular controversial choice of grunge being a much-needed brand-change the legendary manner house had been striving for, while still maintaining in the ethos of Yves St . Laurent:

“Slimane delivered the impact that was expected regarding him – albeit a trendy six months late. Yves St . Laurent himself was a digital rebel within the fashion sector. For Slimane to alight upon an era in which YSL doesn’t have particular relevance can be, therefore, perhaps in line with the spirit of your home. There was a daring energy and a younger looking iconoclasm to this collection … Throughout California, where Slimane life and to where he has moved the design studio, 90’s grunge is a deeply sensed part of everyday folklore; but in Paris, it becomes an abstract concept.In .

Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent show in Paris fashion full week. Photograph: Ian Langsdon/EPA

The Cut’s Stella Bugbee considered the dishevelled styling was a sharp move, and also commended Slimane’s assertiveness:

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Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent show at Paris fashion week. Photograph: Gonzalo Fuentes/Reuters reported that the “use of expensive clothing to achieve a purposely down-market attitude” is evidence of St Laurent aiming at a young audience, but inquired if such a chance could contend with the big players, asking:

“Is playing a cutesy, disaffected-youth hand enough to push the house of Saint Laurent straight into today’s luxury stratosphere – particularly if the targeted air space is that in which Chanel as well as Dior reside “

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Composing for, Hamish Bowles complimented the demonstration but thought the collection left the audience holding:

“It was certainly any bravura exercise in hair styling …but one longed for some more design twists for the Yves borrowings.”

Bowles also created comparisons with the work of the house’s unique designer:

“[Yves’] work has been always shot finished innate class, and also this collection – doubtless deluxe in the hand as well as elegantly merchandised in the lot – looked at times too contemporary market around the runway.”

Tim Blanks at, while suggesting that many people around the frow weren’t troubled by the collection’s nostalgia, was involved by the the lack of something really new.

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Wayne Dean on the set of Digital rebel Without a Cause. Photo: Sunset Boulevard/Corbis

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James Dean throughout Giant. Photograph: Bettmann/CORBIS

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James Dean within 1955. Photograph: Sun Boulevard/Corbis

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