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Is there room with Paris fashion few days for Kanye West’s ego
Kanye West showed his very first womenswear collection on Saturday night. Viewed as a debut collection, I thought it was quite good, actually. The look was almost all backstage swagger, expensively rumpled leather jeans, sharp minor blazers, fierce statement heels, zippered dresses. That reminded me (partly because of the classic hip-hop soundtrack) regarding early Stella McCartney, when the lady was at Chloe: that kind involving bumptuous, street bombast but with a new tailored edge.
Unfortunately, it was impossible to see it as a introduction collection, and that is fully Kanye’s own fault. Whenever you stage a present at 9.30pm about the Saturday night of London Fashion Week, and switch a grand Paris selection into an ultraviolet light box for the location, and fill top row with superstars, you are putting your current clothes up for comparison with the top brands of Paris trend week. And to the next, it just didn’t cut the mustard. It was a bit overwrought: great swags of pelt on a summer selection is a bit P Diddy. A number of the clothes didn’t suit the models completely: trousers too big, too-low necklines that gaped. If you present off-schedule in London, these kinks are usually fine, but you can not get away with them only at that level. When Victoria Beckham showed her first collection, she invited authors five at a time to some hotel room and discussed them through every bit, a humility which starved of oxygen the who-does-she-think-she-is line of invasion.
The problem is as much an excessive amount of enthusiasm as of self confidence. All those hours spent on the front row – wow, Kanye certainly was concentrating. The ritzy slink of Balmain, the modern cool of Celine, your “bullring pomp” (as Cathy Horyn from the NYT described it, wonderful phrase) of Balenciaga: each one of these influences were crystal clear.
Backstage, Kanye confirmed he had been helped simply by Kim Jones, the actual Louis Vuitton menswear designer, by the British designer Louise Goldin, and by Patricia Wilson of Central St . Martins. Carine Roitfeld told him the girl was placing a personalized order. Bergdorf Goodman said stone island t shirt selfridges they were coming back to the lot to take a proper look. When we were leaving behind, Imogen described the present as “a love page to fashion”, and it has been. But if Kanye is seriously interested in fashion, he should dial the festival down a little. The billet-doux is so much sweeter than announcing your ambitions on a presenter, which was how this specific felt.
What did you think Will Kanye are the next Victoria Beckham – or even the next Lindsay Lohan
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