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Men’s shoes: concentrate on footwear trends with the AW14 shows
Utilitarian healthy but with a metallic sheen, the footwear at Common’s LC:M business presentation.
As a shoe compulsive, I often point my camera contact at the catwalk floorboards, even when footwear isn’t intended focus. At the recent London exhibits, two strong shoes or boots themes emerged, with continued on into the Milan and Paris series.
First there was an absolute element of fashion following austerity agenda with easy, utilitarian shoes, apparently reflecting the apparel of working guys (quite literally on the wet pavements at Topman Design). And second, we saw the continuing influence of trainers as well as sportswear details in high-fashion footwear.
A selection of lace-ups in Jonathan Saunders’ LC:M presentation, offering Pop Art-bright soles
However, this being style, looks can be deceiving, so apparently straightforward shapes such as easy workaday oxfords turned out to have a refined, metallic sheen (while at Common) as well as were high-gloss with aspects of bright colour on the sole (at Jonathan Saunders).
The shoes at Prada menswear demonstrate in Milan were a new trainer-shoe hybrid in sound, glossy colour
In Prada, always directional using their footwear, shoes ended up a shiny cross of chunky coach and shoe in solid brights, not extremely dissimilar to the Miu Miu gents trainer-shoe amalgams of the 90s using their then-revolutionary rubberised flashes of principal colour. The ratios of these shoes ended up less extreme compared to the espadrille platforms and raised shark-teeth examiner of recent Prada collections and also, as such, are likely to find a wider fan-base.
Bucking the utilitarian, minimal trend, these sneakers by Diego Vanassibara function wooden lacquer-ware details
Which brings me on to a third men’s shoe theme of note: a certain element of proportion participate in, verging on the ugly, however in pared-back colours and with a few elements exaggerated in a minimal whole.
Rick Owens has been playing with this kind of outline for some time, regarding his solid rubber-soled trainers and also canvas boots with a slightly turned-up profile, like an exaggerated form of the classic downtown football boot (one such kind of his is titled Ramones). In their Paris menswear show this week, the hefty rubber toes with the boots were noticed peeking out from under prolonged trouser hems in his airman-meets-Trojan-warrior selection. Owens’ ongoing collaborations along with Adidas also explore this exaggerated perspective just like the avant-garde elevated examiner on display at their much-discussed step-dancing women’s show.
Raf Simons highly applauded collaborative demonstrate with artist Sterling Dark featured solid-coloured, rubber-soled boots with an even more exaggerated profile than Owens’, of JS Lowry-cum-cartoon-character amounts.
Glossy neo-spats at Carven’s AW14 pool-hall/gambling den held menswear display in Paris
Much less controversially, perhaps, at Carven, earlier in the week as part of a collection infused with looks inspired with the sartorial excess of classic U . s . gangster style, spats were given a futuristic update: alongside solid white, black and grey shoes exhibiting components of both the high-gloss and small trends.
Safety-boots at Kenzo produced the workwear, monochromatic and proportion play trends to a head
Getting the workwear trends and also proportion play with a mens designer clothes sale stone island head on Saturday, Kenzo confirmed oversized safety boot styles, some sporting strong cross-straps in industrial bright or more subtle chevrons throughout brown or orchid upon black.
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